Going to an onsen (温泉) is a must do while you are in Japan. Here are 6 things you should know about it.

1. History

Let’s just say it is very old. Onsen has at least 3,000 years of history. The first mentions of onsen are documented in Nihonki and Manyoshu – two of the oldest Japanese texts dated back as far as 712 AD. Three of the oldest existing onsens are Dogo Onsen, Arima Onsen, and Shirahama Onsen. My first onsen experience was in Arima Onsen. Love it!

2. Onsen coolness

Why is it good to go to an onsen? Well, onsen is often associated with purity, healing, and relaxation. There is a saying in Japanese called  “hadaka no tsukiai” (裸の付き合い) which has a literal meaning of “naked relationship/communion”. Ok, no need to get the wrong idea. The phrase is purely platonic. Japanese people believe that by bathing in the water both the body and soul are cleansed so that people can open up to each other. Also onsen have attracted visitors for their many therapeutic benefits in balneotherapy. I’m not yet sure how true those health benefits are yet, but I could definitely feel my skin was instantly softer and refreshed after a dip in the water.

3. Hot spring formation

Onsen do not magically appear out of nowhere. Japan is populous with onsen because of its unique geographic location. A brief earth science lesson: Natural hot spring (not fake ones) is typically water heated by geothermal (heat from the earth’s mantle) which rises to the surface through natural cracks in the earth. Most hot springs are formed from discharge of groundwater that is heated through contact with magma in volcanic areas.  Because Japan is located on the western edge of the Ring of Fire, one of the most tectonically active zones on Earth, the island nation has intense volcanic activities which form many hot spring spots.  It is also worth it to mention that Tokachigawa Onsen in Hokkaido is a special hot spring that is heated not by volcanic heat source but rather from ancient plants deposited underground.

4. Onsen selection

Onsen is sort of an interchangeable word for both the hot spring source and the surrounding bathing facilities . According to BBC, there are over 25,000 mineral hot springs and over 3,000 onsen facilities across the country. You don’t go bathing at the hot spring source (that would be suicidal) but at the bathing facilities inside the ryokan – traditional Japanese inn, or the upscale spa resorts that are connected to the hot spring with their own pipe systems. You can usually see the water streams running down at the town center and smell the odor of minerals (specifically sulfur).

So the real question is how do you choose 1 out of the 3,000. Well, if you have a particular city in mind to visit, then that’s already a good start. Let’s say you want to visit Tokyo. Since Tokyo is located in the Kanto region, you can then narrow down your search based on proximity. You can also decide based on the type of scenery (e.g., mountain, river, sea, ocean, lake or garden view), and the types of therapeutic effects of the onsen (there are 9 types).

Depending on your budget, you can choose your ultimate onsen experience. Japan net and Rakuten are two of the largest hotel and ryokan booking sites in Japan that I find really useful. Some of the places also have their own websites which offer direct booking (usually in Japanese).

5. Budget

The cost for a one night stay at a ryokan or a resort hotel with onsen ranges between 7,000 yen to 30,000 yen per person. The price tag may sound steep (especially for the more pricey resorts), but this includes more than just the room. And if you only have budget for only one night to spend at a hotel, let this one be it. It is that good and I’m not kidding.

I always favor the smaller family owned ryokans over the luxury hotel resorts that have hundreds of room, fancier facilities and meals. Sometimes you may also find deals during off seasons.

The basic features of the traditional Japanese experience are similar:

• tatami floors (straw mat flooring)
• futon beds (pads laid on the floor as bedding)
• yukata (a cotton kimono worn inside and possibly outside the hotel)
• kaiseki (cuisine with fresh seasonal ingredients for both dinner and breakfast)
• onsen bath pools (often more than one, and possibly private and/or outdoor baths)

If you opt for a western style room, you will instead have a carpeted floor and a western style bed.  However, this option is mostly available at larger, or more modern hotels and resorts.

Most of the ryokan and hotel resorts also offer day access to their bath pools to non-stay visitors. The cost runs between 500 – 1,000 yen.

5. Onsen etiquette

How should you behave in an onsen?

I will never forget about my first time…going to an onsen. Not only because of the relaxing experience, but more so for the fact that I made a fool out of myself as a complete newbie which still cracks me up sometimes.  “How should I take off my clothes?” That was the question I contemplated for a long time while staring at a room full of baskets. Fortunately a kind obasan came to my rescue and explained to me first in Japanese and then in a more universal language (hand gestures and body movements). Then I did it again when I accidentally ‘contaminated’ the pool by putting my towel in the water. Immediately I was corrected by two other ladies in the pool. Today, I no longer do things that scream out “She is a gaijin.” It is actually not that difficult and this onsen etiquette guide will help you.

6. Onsen food

Onsen tamago – eggs boiled in hot spring water are small eats you can easily find around onsen towns. The slow cooked egg has a creamy texture of silky whites and soft yolk inside. If you have the chance to visit Hakone, remember to try the famous black onsen from Owakudani. Although it has an ugly coal black outer shell and smells strongly of sulphur, the egg has the ability to increase one’s longevity. Or so it is said.

Kaiseki ryori (懐石料理) is a traditional Japanese multi-course haute meal that is usually offered at the onsen ryokan or hotel resorts. It is another highlight besides the onsen bath itself. Kaiseki ryori emphasizes the well balance of taste, presentation, and texture. It is an editable art. The entire meal is composed of several small dishes prepared from the freshest seasonal ingredients available at the time. Each individual dish is contained in a beautifully decorated tray, bowl, plate or pot.  Although the portions seem small, trust me, the meal is quite filling.

This is all I would like to share for now. Hopefully you will find this information to be useful for planning your onsen trip!