To be honest, I had not done much research on Moustiers Sainte Marie (how I love even the Frechy sound of thou name) prior to the departure of our honeymoon trip. We knew we would be spending some times in the French Riviera then driving towards Provence for the lavender fields and finally flying out from Marseille heading home. But we had no idea what would be the best way to get from one point to another. One night, as I was browsing at google map for stopping points, I randomly spotted a blue spot called “Gorges du Verdon” and the associated pictures were just stunning.

Me: “Hey Hon, take a look at this gorgeous river canyon.”

Ken: “Oh this looks nice.”

Me: “Should we check it out?”

Ken: “Hmm, is it on the way to Valensole?”

Me: “Sure it is.” (Actually, I was not sure at all, but it didn’t seem too far when eyeballing, so I nodded my head ever so convincingly so my dear husband would fall for it, and he did.)

Once we decided to visit the gorges, it was natural for us to find Moustiers-Sainte-Marie as the perfect place to stay for the night given its close proximity. It was definitely a decision made from the spur of the moment, yet I am so happy that we had made it as it brought us to these hidden gems in the countryside of France that we will never forget.

MOUSTIERS-SAINTE-MARIE

Moustiers Sainte Marie is named as one of the most beautiful village of France and this little provencal village is unique beyond your imagination. Located up in the Alpes de Haute Provence region in the southeastern France and of the Regional Natural Park of Verdon, the quaint village is dramatically situated between two mountain peaks that solemnly stand over the village like two faithful guardians, with a legendary golden star hanging in between the limestone cliffs, a river waterfall that cascades down through the village like a stream of life, and a picturesque view of the nearby turquoise color Lake of Sainte Croix and terraces of olive trees. What is not to love about this place!

LITTLE HISTORY ABOUT THE PROVENCAL VILLAGE

Moustiers Sainte Marie is a typical provencal village and has an ancient religious root dates back to the 5th century when monks from the Lérin Island sought shelter in the travertine caves and later found a monastery here in the 6th century. For centuries, the village had endured invasions and pillages (e.g., the Moorish invasion in the 10th and 11th century) which forced its residents to seek shelter in caves and subsequent resulted in more fortifications and houses built. Between 17th and 19th century, the village was flourished with the art of ceramics or common known as faïence pottery which we can still experience today.

TAKE A STROLL THROUGH THE VILLAGE

A place of anecdotes and history, the best way to experience Moustiers Sainte Marie is to walk around it with a leisure mind. Most parts of the villages are pedestrian walk-friendly and some are not accessible by car. As some of the streets are sloped, I will recommend to wear comfortable shoes when walking around. The cobblestone paved streets and alleys are full of small shops, cafes, ice creamary, restaurants ceramic workshops and squares with artsy fountains that you can spend the entire day wandering around. There are also bridges built over the running river (Ravin de Notre Dame) that connect the streets and you can take a good look and hear clearly of the splashing sound of the waterfall. Everywhere you go, you will see all the facades decorated with flowers and greenery which beautifully complements with the earthly color of the structures. Then whenever you look up, you will be amazed to see the magnificent sight of the mountain cliffs towering over the village while still letting the sun shines brightly through the village. Some of the notable landmarks in the villages are:

Atelier La Source – this cute art store is located right next to the bridge that leads you right into the main square of the village that you just can’t miss it. It sells ceramic pieces, wood handles, postcards and all sort of things that are good to be souvenirs to bring home.

Faïence Bondil – a decorative ceramic shop that sells quintessential potteries like teapots, butter dishes, oil dispensers, lamps, cups and other traditional earthenware made in Moustiers Sainte Marie. The price of the ceramic ware may be pricier than other places, but they are definitely made with quality and love. Try to have a conversation with the store owners, they are genuine and love to share their artisan passion with you.

Musée de la Faïence – if you are interested in learning about the faïence pottery history and techniques, this museum is a nice place to visit.

Tourism Office – I do not usually visit tourism offices since I would have done all of my research ahead of the trip or just “wing” it. But the exterior of this tourism office is so photogenic with the green windows and wooden frame that it’s worth to snap a picture.

Church of Our Lady of the Assumption (Église Notre-Dame de l’Assomption) – Built in the 12th century, this Romanesque church with its iconic Lombard bell tower is the centerpiece of Moustiers Sainte Marie. The bell tower is also one of the few moving bell towers in Europe and it has become the subject and inspiration of many artists. The choir was partially rebuilt in Gothic style, so you will see a mixed elements within the church during the different time periods. After touring the church, head towards the nearby square which is a perfect lookout point of the surrounding waterfall and terraces. If you stay in Moustiers Sainte Marie overnight, you will be rewarded by the wake up call from the ringing bell in the morning and the chirping sound of the birds as if you are in a paradise.

Glaces Artisanales La Solanée – On our way back to the Airbnb after dinner, we bumped into this small ice cream shop, and on a hot summer night, I would definitely not say no to sorbet ice cream. I ordered melon flavor, but there are so many flavors to choose from. The most popular one perhaps is lavender since Provence is famous for its lavender. Located at a small square on an off street at an off-peak time, the small ice cream shop still attracted quite a number of customers. We sat down on one of the benches in the square and enjoyed the quiet moment. I could imagine how busy it could get during the day when tons of tourists are around town. The ice creams are delicious and a simple joy!
L’Etoile Givrée – Artisan Glacier Fabricant – This is yet another popular ice cream shop in the village. Who says you can only get one ice cream at a time. 😀

SPOT THE GOLDEN STAR

At first, I thought it was a real star because as I looked at the sky after dusk it blended perfectly with the dreamy sky and at times I swore I could see it twinkling. No one knows the exact story behind the golden star. Legend has it that a crusader vowed that if he ever come back alive, he would hang a star above the village to pay tribute to Virgin Mary. The star and the golden chain that connects it between the limestone mountain cliffs and hang about 60 meters above the village added even more color to this place. It was said that the star has been replaced more than a dozen time in the last century, but still it is charming to see the shiny star above.

CLIMB UP TO NOTRE-DAME DE BEAUVOIR CHAPEL

Built between 12th and 16th century, Notre-Dame de Beauvoir Chapel has a mixed of Romanesque and Gothic elements. In order to get there, you have to climb up a steep trail through passing 14 stations of cross. In an early morning, I was fully rejuvenated by the beauty sleep and woke up from the wonderful sound of the tower bell and the chirping of the birds. I dragged Ken to go for a hike to the chapel which when I checked should be 15-20 minutes by foot. Near the parking lot where we parked our car (this one is above the village), we could easily see is the sacred path of stairs leading up to the chapel. Keep in mind that the stone path is extremely slippery to the point that you can see many of the stones are polished with natural shine. I wonder if that is from all the walking by the tourists, the believers, the original monks or all of above. In any case, wear good shoes and be prepared for a challenging hike but knowing that you will be rewarded stunning views from above of a panoramic view of Moustiers Sainte Marie and its surroundings. The chapel is small but unique as it is perched on the rock cliff and looks ever so holy in the serene hilltop.

HOW TO GET TO MOUSTIERS SAINTE MARIE

By Car

There is no public transportation to get to this secluded yet beautiful village, the only mode of transportation is by car.

Distance from Moustiers Sainte Marie
144 km (89.5 mi) to Nice – 2 hour 12 min drive (via A8)
101 km (62.8 mi) to Aix-en-Provence – 1 hour 21 min drive (via A51)
131 km (81.4 mi) to Marseille – 1 hour 37 min drive (via A51)

It is popular among Nice-goers to take a day trip to Moustiers Sainte Marie. But you can easily spend a few days in the village if you would like to comfortably wander around the winding streets and also spend some time in the Gorges Du Verdon. (see Part II of our post)

By Group Tour

If you want to save the trouble of driving, alternatively, you can join a group tour from Nice which will conveniently take you Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Gorges Du Verdon and Castellane. This is a good choice if you want to enjoy a hassle-free day trip and you are based in Nice. Here are some recommended group tours: